How Long Do Rodi Filters Last

jeflen651 · Jan 21, 2017

Hey everybody, how ofttimes exercise you change your rodi filters? I but make about 40 gallons per month and I have non seen much of a pressure drop. Starting to meet a little flake of colour on the white polishers at the bottom. My tds are about "0". In the past I take been changing them yearly. I was only wondering what others practise.

bif24701

Get BRS total chlorine test strips. When yous start detecting more than chlorine in the waste matter h2o it's time to change the carbon. When force per unit area drops to your RO from normal, alter sediment. Modify the DI when your TDS rises in the good water. RO membranes should concluding y'all many years if y'all maintain it, flush them, and proceed chlorine away from them because it will oxidize them.

ALs FLorida Corals

once the tds goes up I alter the expensive folters.once he sediment one turns brown I change information technology . that's merely 3 bucks

cromag27

Here's the lowdown on rodi....

First, inline tds meters are not accurate. I use a handheld - hm digital com-100.

Membrane - modify when rejection rate gets down to 96%, or you lot feel a decrease in psi.
Sediment - change at six months or if psi decreases, whichever comes first.
Carbon - change at six months or if detectable chlorine, whichever comes first.
Di - change when tds reaches 1

If y'all utilise dual di similar spectrapure, and so maxcap di become changed at a different interval and final stage di gets inverse when tds reaches 1.

Viracon13

I simply received my order of BRS RODI filters today. I modify them once I notice my output decrease. In my case, this was 10 months. I probably brand 50-60 gallons a month

4FordFamily

Not nearly frequently plenty... I brand A LOT of h2o and need to change them more with my actually hard water :/

NanaReefer

My tap h2o has a TDS of 165. My filters terminal quite a while. My DI Resin lasts most a year [emoji2] I make a little over 60g a month.

bif24701

Bottom line is all h2o is dissimilar and you filter life volition be different.

When to change:
Sediment: pressure drops past +five%
Carbon: chloramines/chlorine is detected in waste water
RO: rejection rate falls +2%
DI: TDS detectable

Test and monitor. That how to know if your filters need changing.

My system is 300 gallons and I make hundreds of gallons a month. I changed my sediment and carbon filters @ 8 months, because I constitute them to be exhausted. RO membranes can terminal years and years.

If you run through DI fast you lot could take a lot of dissolved CO2 in your water. Collect water before going through the DI, employ and air stone to get the CO2 has out then pump it through your DI.

Test and monitor.

jeflen651

Cheers to all who have commented. Very much appreciated.

don_chuwish

Then my input force per unit area is showing 74psi before sediment, carbon x ii, then 69psi before RO membrane. Is that depression enough to change carbon? Sediment filter is barely off white - the water here is very clean. Handheld TDI meter shows 38-40 tops.

Buckeye Hydro

Hither'due south a cut/paste from our FAQ's section - you can access all of our FAQ'southward from our homepage:

A adept rule of thumb is to supervene upon your sediment filter and carbon cake after six months. A more precise style to maximize the usable life of these 2 filters is to use a pressure level gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or more of the prefilters (all the filters that touch the h2o earlier it reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

Besides be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon cake. A good 0.v micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at one gpm. Some original equipment suppliers unremarkably provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Recollect that all the water you process, both waste matter water and purified water, goes through the carbon block. It's good practise to modify the carbon block out at no more than than 50% of the stated chlorine capacity.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, employ your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, tape, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: i) tap water, ii) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap h2o will probable range from about 50 ppm to upwardly of grand ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let'south say your tap h2o reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, yous have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do nosotros go almost getting that TDS reading down to somewhere nigh zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block practise very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the h2o at the "in" port on your RO membrane housing and yous'll see it is all the same approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is actually the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For example, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes accept a rejection rate of 96% (i.east., they pass up 96% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). And so the purified h2o coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be virtually sixteen ppm (a 96% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.one thousand.a. "permeate") more than slowly, just take a higher rejection rate (96 to 99%). The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much water y'all run through information technology, and how "dirty" the water is. Membranes can function well for a twelvemonth, two years, or more than. To examination the membrane, mensurate the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced past the membrane. Compare that to the membrane'southward advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their part declines.

After the RO membrane, water volition flow to your DI housing. DI resin in skilful condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or i ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or one ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes you'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will frazzle the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the trouble is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are non created equal.

Additionally, don't forget to sanitize the entire system at least one time per year, and launder and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter modify.

Russ

don_chuwish

Thanks Russ, that's a peachy read!

revhtree

Get BRS total chlorine examination strips. When you get-go detecting more chlorine in the waste water it's time to change the carbon. When pressure drops to your RO from normal, change sediment. Change the DI when your TDS rises in the good water. RO membranes should concluding you many years if you maintain it, flush them, and continue chlorine away from them considering information technology will oxidize them.

Very helpful, unproblematic and to the bespeak!

Larry L

All good comments above, a couple things to add together:

Go BRS total chlorine examination strips. When you start detecting more chlorine in the waste water it's time to change the carbon.

I effort to examination for chlorine as close as possible to where it comes out of the prefilter. If your unit has a "DI bypass" that helps, or you can splice in a tee and ball valve just later the prefilter to get in easy to take a sample there.

rails the TDS ... in iii places: 1) tap h2o, two) after the RO merely earlier the DI, and 3) after the DI.

This is easy if you employ inline TDS meters with multiple ports, I've seen them with either two or three ports. My setup has two DI canisters, and then in addition to those 3 places that Russ mentioned, I also have a TDS port in between the two DI canisters. When the numbers coming out of the first DI become upwardly as well much compared to what'southward coming out of the RO membrane, I swap the second DI canister to get the new start canister, and put fresh resin in what's at present the second canister.

Jizu Puentes

I change my prefilters every 6 months and DI whenever information technology reaches 1 TDS. My setup is one sediment filter of transitioning microns then a carbon then RO then DI.

Klaas

Here'due south a cut/paste from our FAQ's section - you can access all of our FAQ's from our homepage:
A practiced dominion of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon cake after half dozen months. A more than precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure estimate to identify when pressure level reaching the membrane starts to reject. This is your indication i or more of the prefilters (all the filters that affect the water before information technology reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

Besides be cognizant of the chlorine chapters of the carbon block. A skilful 0.v micron carbon block for case will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at ane gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Think that all the water yous process, both waste water and purified water, goes through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, utilize your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, tape, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per meg [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) afterward the RO but before the DI, and 3) later the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, allow's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you accept 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we become about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near naught?

If you practise some experimenting with your TDS meter, y'all'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block exercise very piddling to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the h2o at the "in" port on your RO membrane housing and you'll see information technology is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is actually the workhorse of the organisation. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For example, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes accept a rejection charge per unit of 96% (i.e., they reject 96% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would exist about 16 ppm (a 96% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.thousand.a. "permeate") more slowly, just take a higher rejection rate (96 to 99%). The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much h2o you lot run through it, and how "dirty" the h2o is. Membranes tin function well for a year, two years, or more. To examination the membrane, mensurate the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane's advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also ordinarily produce purified h2o more than slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, h2o will period to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping upwardly from 0 or ane ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes yous'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't final very long. Ofttimes the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the instance. Sometimes the trouble is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don't forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter modify.

Russ

Hi Russ. Thanks for the extensive information. Every bit for DI resin would we need to utilize Anion or Cation resin or a combination of the two? I tin can buy those in bulk here in Manila. Thanks for your help. Thanks. Klaas

BMan · Jan 26, 2017

Great thread. I simply gear up up a used Maxxima Hello-Southward last dark and was wondering the same questions. The waste matter stream seem to exist most the same flow rate as the product flow charge per unit. Is this normal ?

jwshiver

Additionally, don't forget to sanitize the entire organisation at to the lowest degree once per yr,

I have never heard of this. Is there a standard procedure for this or a link yous can provide?
Thank you.

West1

Bang-up thread every bit when to replace was just on my mind.
Tin can you lot guys specify which replacement filters y'all use?

gary henkel

Bully thread as when to replace was just on my mind.
Can you guys specify which replacement filters you use?

i find my di needs to be changed most every 3 months. if tds is not zero, it gets inverse. 1 caveat. membrane life tin be greatly increased past regular backwashing of the membrane. i apply the aquatic life smart buddy booster pump with my filter. not just boosts pressure for better yield only does an 18 second backwash every fourth dimension it starts up.

gary

How Long Do Rodi Filters Last

How oft practise you lot change RODI filters

cromag27

octoaquatics.com - ig = @octoaquatics. view my sig

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